As the winter chill has arrived we have been enjoying some roaring log fires here. We have a massive wood store so throwing on another huge log doesnt seem at all extravagant. Clearing up the mess in the morning can however be a bit of a chore. One local resident was rather too careless last week with his cinders. Last tuesday in a hamlet just to the north of our neighbouring village Entrechaux a 62 year old englishman put out his cinders in the garden , which subsequently re-ignited in the mistral winds rapidly becoming an inferno which within 12 hours had destroyed over 100 acres of woodland, apricot and olive fields. We received the inside track on all this from our journalist friend Sylvie who covered the story for La Provence and also from Faucon vigneron Laurance Joly whose vines narrowly missed the path of the fire. Luckily nobody was hurt and no properties destroyed though at least one Chambres d’Hote owner has had their grounds reduced to a charred moonscape. And the consequence for the unfortunate perpetrator? ..allegedly the departmental authorities will be presenting him with the bill for the firefighting and clean up operation which involved 20 fire engines, 300 firefighters and 2 fire fighting Tracker planes sent from Marseille - the damage : 50,000 euros. Makes me shudder every time I put our cinders out!

Inclement weather hits La Madelene this week…Le Mistral at around 60 kms per hour, mornings around freezing point and as of last night the first heavy rains of the season. However nothing that a huge log fire, a roast and a bottle of Gigondas cant sort out!We have also been enjoying some seasonal culinary delights. Our friend Pierre turned up with a basket of ripe Kaki fruit…this is the extraordinary looking orange/tomato like fruit that we see in so m any gardens here. Its a variety of persimmon of Chinese origin, introduced to southern europe and northen africa in the early 1800’s. It has a sweet soft pulp tasting somewhere between an ultra-ripe apricot and a mango. Naturally high in tannin the fruit is digustingly bitter if not quite ready…they need to be stored off the tree until just “a point”, then consumed immediately. Pierre tells me most owners waste their fruit by not getting this spot on. My tip….scrape the pulp into a carton of greek yoghurt.Our other interesting fruit purchase at Vaison market on tuesday was a kilo of Quince fruit ( in french - Coing ). These iconic fruit resembling slightly mis-formed poire william have amazingly subtle, scented skins. We poached them in lemon rinds and honey and then sauted the slices in butter to accompany a roast poussin….delicious. UK readers might want to check out the October issue of “Waitrose Food and Wine” which contained an excellent introduction to this exotic fruit by Diana Henry and some terrific recipes.And what have we been drinking ?: Aside from the aforementioned comfort giving Gigondas, I bought a few bottles of Cotes du Rhone en Primeur from Richard Maby of Tavel /Lirac fame at his open day on Sunday …..this is Nouveau yes but not as we have known it (tart, thin, gamay bubblegum) ie this is really very drinkable….ultra fresh red fruit flavours but with some body (14 per cent alcohol ) and texture and a lovely refreshing finish. I’ll be back for more…just right for Christmas parties..brilliant effort!

Thursday was Toussaint here ( All Saints day) which, judging by the complete shutdown I witnessed, the French take pretty seriously as a jour ferie…a national holiday. Last chance to put their feet up this side of Noel. And as it fell on a thursday many appeared to have made the “pont” ie extended the break to a long weekend. I took myself for a slow drive to enjoy the autumnal scenery and call in at a few of my favourite wineries to see people and make a few purchases. All a bit hit and miss as it turned out as most had shut up shop for the day. Still the brown/orange/red landscape was breathtaking against a crisp, brilliant blue sky and it felt good to be alive. Heading home over the Dentelles I decided to take a detour from Suzette up to the domaine of Chateau Redortier. The D road that takes you up to Suzette is spectacular enough but when you take the turning to Redortier the tiny road snakes up another 150 metres giving superb views across to the craggy limestone teeth of the west escarpment.  Negotiating two questionable looking dogs I arrived at the caveau to be greeted by Mme. de Menton herself.  (more…)